For Chef Jeff Nathan Life is a Delicious Adventure

Arguably the kosher world’s most journeyed chef, Jeff Nathan brings the fruits of his journeys back to Abigael’s.  The luxury restaurant is a hub of international flavors in midtown.

Jeff Nathan is a very busy guy.  Not only is he the master chef and owner of Abigael’s; a midtown edifice of everything kosher and delicious, he also has several side projects.  In short, Jeff never sits still, and aren’t we lucky he doesn’t? Jeff helps develop products for Hain-Celestial, Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods. If you’ve had something tasty and natural lately, you may, very well have this guy to thank.

The best part of all of these separate endeavors, Jeff says, is being able to pull them all off together.  “I love watching things work,” Jeff told me one afternoon over lunch at Abigael’s.  I had the Chopped Asian Chicken Salad, a light, but filling dish that rendered the best of its ingredients; a perfect example of not only Abigael’s fare, but of the way its owner relates to the world. Jeff believes in finding the best in everything and bringing it all together. “It’s the thrill of the chase,” he says, finding the best ingredients and techniques to create exciting dishes.  The chase never stops; Jeff is always on the hunt.

Jeff eats out four or five times a week, he travels the world in search of the best ingredients, he learns from his peers and attends trade shows.  His greatest delight is putting it all together to create exciting food that defies the kosher stereotype. His work in the food development world gives him a chance to expand the kosher grocery market, while his restaurant challenges the paradigm of kosher dishes. Abigael’s shows the world that kosher doesn’t mean corned beef and Manishewitz wine. It also shows the world that gourmet doesn’t have to be complicated.  Jeff told me, “I don’t know what ‘gourmet,’ is.”  For a dish to be served at Abigael’s it doesn’t have to be elaborate, it just has to be great.  In Jeff’s opinion, great food is made by understanding and respecting its components. Lots of fancy dressing doesn’t make a good salad, vine-ripe tomatoes do. 

To learn more about Jeff’s concept of a great meal, my husband and I sat down for a tasting of Jeff’s favorite classic dishes as well as some exciting new offerings from the spring menu. We started with simplistic perfection – pepper seared tuna with ponzu sauce.  Ponzu is a citrus flavored soy sauce used to accent the flavor of sashimi fish.  Jeff’s ponzu is made in-house with lime, lemon, grapefruit and star anise and aged over 6 months to render the ideal flavor.  I loved how the citrus played off the fresh flavor of the tuna and my husband enjoyed the bite of the pepper. Next we tried a sushi classic – spicy tuna.  The Abigael’s version is jazzed up with scallion, avocado and a little bit of tempura crunch.  The only way to wash down Abigael’s sushi was with some of their high quality Ginjo sake, served cold instead of hot to preserve the flavor.

Jeff puts a great deal of thought and energy into the details in order to present the best end result. Taking us from Japan to China on our culinary journey, we saw how worthwhile his efforts are.  The bold flavor of Szechuan beef resolved on the palate to let the individual elements out to play.  At the same time sweet and tangy with the zing of ginger, the tender marinated beef and crisp vegetables hold their own in this savory sauce. After the confident overtures of sushi and beef, the gentle and unassuming flavor of Thai sea bass was a natural progression. The delicate taste of coconut curry was refreshing and appetizing without being overwhelming, fresh scallions and sautéed bok choy were refreshing touches that make this the perfect spring or summer dish.

Next came one of Jeff’s favorite dishes – polenta. This versatile form of cornmeal can be served sweet as a breakfast cake or cereal or savory as an alternate mealtime starch. Abigael’s features Wild Mushroom Polenta as an appetizer. Dressed with truffle oil, thyme and sundried tomatoes, the polenta serves a simple platform to let simple, savory components shine.  I can see why Jeff likes it so much.

Another of Jeff’s favorites is Abigael’s’ signature dish – the Barbeque Brisket Eggroll. Served with chipotle potato salad, this is a must-have. The eggroll is the superlative meat and potatoes. Sweet and piquant barbeque accents beef that has been slow cooked to the closest beef gets to melting while chipotle challenges everything you’ve ever thought about potato salad. If you go to Abigael’s and don’t try the Barbeque Brisket Eggroll, then you haven’t been paying attention to anything I’ve said.  Try it! You owe me.

Brought into the savory world of western flavors, we next tried the Hangar Steak Au Poivre with cognac cream sauce and Twice Cooked Short Ribs. Both are aged for ultimate flavor.  The Hangar steak presents a more aromatic, homey flavor while the sweet boldness of the short ribs recalls the simple pleasure of an outdoor barbeque.  Rather than being tossed on the grill, however, Abigael’s’ short ribs are smoked for 8 hours and then roasted.  The beef dishes were complimented with scallion mashed potatoes whose slight acidity served as a great palate cleanser between the strong flavors in the beef.

We finished off the meal with fondue.  Because who can resist the opportunity to dip stuff in chocolate? Jeff says food should be fun and fondue is the ultimate in fun dessert. I left Abigael’s with a full belly and a new attitude about cooking. I learned that making good food isn’t about putting something impressive on a plate; it’s about the creative process and enjoying the journey from the grocery store to the dinner table.

For the Nathan family running a restaurant isn’t a career destination, it’s a life. Jeff’s wife Alison (not Abigael – the restaurant got its name from a former business partner’s other venture – King David’s) is now the marketing director of Abigael’s. She has watched the restaurant and her role in it evolve over the years. Now, more than ever she appreciates the dynamic nature of Abigael’s. When they first began, newspaper advertising was paramount.  Now, the internet has changed the game.  Alison told me that when they offered a coupon on the social purchasing network, DealFind, it sold out before the day was over.

With spring approaching, Abigael’s has added new menu items and Alison already has a favorite “The sliders. They’re different every night. I think I’ve tried a dozen of them already!” The ever-changing sliders are joined by new dishes like Veal Chops in a pearl onion Marsala and Everything Salmon – inspired by bagels with lox.  Alison said it was hard to make the changes, but the most popular items will remain alongside the new ones.  Variety is the spice of life, and Abigael’s proves they know just the right balance of spice to add jazz things up.

How do you say "Heimish" in Afrikaans?

            Joburg’s traditional South African fare has a tasty future in kosher kitchens.

            Whenever my doorbell rings, my dog freaks out.  Blueberry runs to the door barking, placing herself firmly between me and the approaching visitor.  Her loud bark makes her presence known, discouraging ninjas and other would-be attackers from carrying out their nefarious plans.  Her violently wagging tail, however, betrays the true motivation that drives her dramatic greeting; Blueberry hopes that whoever has rung the bell has brought her something delicious.  It’s not an unfounded hope.  Once a week she frolics through the living room gleefully sticking her nose into the grocery bags, just knowing she’ll get bits of whatever is in there once it’s cooked.  Today her dream just might have come true – I got a box of sausages and dried beef.  Ultimately, though, Blueberry would be disappointed, because it was all too good to share.

            As Blueberry navigated her roller coaster of canine emotions, I examined the bounty.  The package contained Biltong and Boerewors. Gezuntheit.  Or, should I say “Mag God jou seen,” which is Afrikaans for “G-d bless you.”  And since both products are Glatt Kosher, I certainly think He gives His approval.  Joburg produces authentic, Glatt Kosher traditional South African cuisine.  The company was started by David Libesman, a South African born Jew who delighted his American friends by serving them his favorite native foods.  By putting his products on the market, he may very well delight you, too.  I was certainly impressed.

            I tried the Biltong first.  I was particularly impressed with it because like beef jerky, it offers a shelf-stable, protein rich snack.  Unlike beef jerky, it has a very reasonable sodium content (just 150 mg per serving).  It is also lean (97% fat free), and slowly dried which gives it a texture unique from American beef jerky.  Jerky beef is first saturated in savory marinade and then cooked.  A bite of jerky floods the pallet with the flavor of the marinade.  Biltong offers the same satisfying robustness and beefy flavor without the aggressiveness delivered by jerky.  Biltong was chewy at first bite, and then softened as I processed it.  It is lightly spiced to enhance the flavor of the beef without overshadowing it.  When I ate the Biltong I thought, “That is tasty beef,” instead of “Yum, teriyaki!” I would have been content to finish the whole thing off on its own, quite honestly, but Libesman suggests trying his Biltong in a salad.  I figured that he’s the professional, I should heed his advice.

            Biltong’s flavor reminds me of a good burger or roast beef, so I kept that in mind as I prepared the salad.  I put together simple ingredients that would play off the Biltong; I wanted it to be the main feature of the dish.  I tossed a handful of Biltong with dark greens, cherry tomatoes, red onions and a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  It was a quick, easy, healthy lunch with unique and robust flavor. 

            For dinner, I made the Boerewors or “Farmer Sausage.”  Once again, Joburg introduces its audience to a different way to eat beef without overshadowing the flavor of good beef.  Boerewors is spiced in a perfect balance – just enough to create an exciting dish, but not enough to outshine the flavor of the beef.  The simplicity of the spicing also makes Boerewors very versatile.  I grilled mine on the George Foreman and then served it in onion buns with spicy mustard and French fries on the side.  I tried another with no condiments, and plated it with grilled vegetables.  I chose sweet vegetables to play up the savory quality of sausage.  Onions, peppers and zucchini made for a colorful compliment.  Boerewors would have also been delicious diced in an omelet or served with pancakes as a breakfast sausage (at any time of day.  I believe in breakfast for dinner).  The ease of preparation and flexibility of flavor, plus the fact that it freezes well and can be cooked without defrosting, make this a great protein to have on hand.  At 21g per serving, it’s on the fattier side, so while it’s not healthy enough to be a diet staple, it makes quite a treat.

            Joburg brings exciting flavors to the kosher market with its Boerewors and Biltong.  The former is a novel departure from hot dogs or sausages, the latter a healthy alternative to beef jerky.  They are both handy proteins – Boerewors cooks up easily and Biltong is ready right out of the bag.  They were both so tasty that, unfortunately for Blueberry, I didn’t leave a scrap behind.  Maybe she’ll get lucky and tomorrow a ninja will pop by for tea. 

Prime KO - A lesson in Asian Fusion

Prime KO – A Lesson in Asian Fusion

By Yael Hanover

Prime Hospitality’s latest venture – an upscale Asian Fusion restaurant on the Upper West Side delights the palate and introduces diners to new adventures in gastronomy.

Blizzard conditions made New York City nearly impassable last Sunday night. Heavy snow and gusting winds kept all but the most determined travelers at home.   Through swirling gusts of vicious chill, my husband and I made our way to 85^th Street.  Boy, was it worth it.

Prime KO is just east of Broadway on 85^th Street. The latest addition to the West Side’s array of kosher restaurants is in a class of its own. Prime KO presents a selection of Asian Fusion and traditional Japanese dishes in a setting that is at the same time chic and comfortable with impeccable service. Architect Warren Ashworth’s design combines sleek lines and angles with rich, warm colors and organic elements. Orchids in angular vases and vivid monotone artwork adorn the walls. Round lighting fixtures designed by Steven Katz evoke paper lanterns, but are in fact, finely threaded. As with its food, Prime KO’s aesthetics strike the perfect balance.

Like its “Prime,” relatives, Prime Grill and Solo, Prime KO is a great restaurant that happens to be kosher. 10 years ago, Joey Allaham revolutionized kosher dining by opening Prime Grill.  The part owner of the Plaza Hotel’s Oak Room felt luxury and dietary observance were not exclusive.  He introduced midtown to his passion; fine kosher food. In mid 2011, Allaham hopes to bring such indulgence to the dining room tables of New York City. His plan is to open a butcher shop to sell all the high quality meats that make his restaurants remarkable. Allaham knows that New York supports a unique climate for kosher diners and continues to expand the horizons of the market. With the opening of Solo, Allaham presented the kosher market with Asian Fusion, a concept he carries through to his newest venture. Prime KO is the hip kid of the Prime family, incorporating innovative cuisine, chic design and a cocktail lounge, all in an atmosphere friendly to families. Located in a “hub,” of the New York Jewish community, the West Side location has drawn a steady crowd of youthful clientele.

Coming in from the blizzard, my first priority was to warm up. The perfect remedy for the frigid weather was a warm cup of flavored Sake.  First I had the lychee, and then the raspberry.  The lychee was sweet and adventurous while the raspberry had a more familiar flavor and a tart finish. The food also carried pleasant warmth to it.  The fusion appetizers were spicy without being hot and employed a number of different ingredients to give them each a unique zing. The spicy tuna with crispy rice was such a creative amalgamation of flavors, my husband declared as soon as he tasted it, “There’s so much going on right now!” The tuna was combined with traditional spicy mayo, but not so much that the fresh tuna flavor was overwhelmed, and then topped with jalapeño aioli. The tuna rested atop a cake of sushi rice that was crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside and sweet throughout.  The combination of flavors and textures was symphonic. It was the ideal introduction to the fusion concept. The Katzu salmon roll seamlessly blended sushi with haute European elements like truffle oil and sundried tomatoes while the tuna pizza and sashimi tacos took on simple classics and made them extraordinary.

The hot appetizer menu also features dressed up common American dishes. The Buffalo wings are marinated in the same spicy mayonnaise that accents the tuna.  The sliders are made from Kobe beef and dressed in teriyaki sauce. The Gyu Kakuni, however is a more traditional offering which strikes an elegant balance of sweet and savory.  This slow cooked short rib dish is braised for 12 hours in a sake, miso and teriyaki sauce. The result is meat so tender, a knife was needed only to push it back onto the fork. The long, slow cooking process also infuses the beef with the delicately poised flavors of the sauce.

Where Gyu Kakuni gains in patience, Shabu Shabu triumphs in haste. Literally translated as “Swish, swish,” Shabu Shabu was served as a kettle of hot broth set over flame with thinly sliced beef on the side. We dipped the beef in the broth – called Dashi – and swished it back and forth as it cooked to our liking, acquiring hints of essence from the cabbage and mushrooms in the broth. It was light and refreshing and acquired exciting kicks of flavor from the dipping sauces with which it was served.  We also had the opportunity to try Sukiyaki.  Similar in concept to Shabu Shabu, Sukiyaki is a soup made with thinly sliced beef, Napa cabbage, scallions and shitake mushrooms, but in a more robust broth. Sukiyaki and Shabu Shabu show how Prime KO Chef Makoto Kameyama can create a wide variety of thrilling dishes all infused with the same common elements. Chef Kameyama was classically trained in Japan and handpicked by Prime KO owner Joey Allaham.  Chef Kameyama brings authenticity and creativity to Prime KO permeating every dish not only with tradition but inspiration.

The foundation of any dish, no matter how elaborate, is the ingredients.  The next offering was the expert presentation of premium fundamentals. Renowned for its flavor and marbled texture, Kobe beef speaks for itself and requires very little accoutrement to bring out its unique character. To best showcase this special beef, it was prepared in front of us on a heated Himalayan salt stone and lightly seasoned with Yuzu lemon. This produced a fully appreciated form of Kobe beef; bold flavor gracefully accented by Yuzu and Himalayan salt. As with all of Prime KO’s dishes, it is the ideal realization of the best ingredients.

Ending on a high note, we sampled Prime KO’s desserts.  Each had its own unique character to offer. The ubiquitous hot chocolate cake stood out among its counterparts at other restaurants. This one was made in house, as opposed to frozen and reheated and gave forth its sweet filling with little pressure from the spoon. Two types of parve ice cream – fig and ginger - topped almond cookies.  Both were so rich and creamy I’d have doubted they were parve if I didn’t know better. The roasted pear was subtly infused with spices without losing its own flavor or texture. It was just another of Prime KO’s stand out dishes that was more than the sum of its parts, much like the place itself.

Prime KO is a brilliant apex of design and gastronomic artistry. It cultivates a hip but comfortable ambience while serving innovative but approachable dishes. The space accommodates fine dining, casual cocktails (try the San Tropee!), and even music. During Chanukah, the Maccabeats performed for an intimate crowd in Prime KO’s downstairs dining room. The event solidified Prime KO’s status as a cultural hub of the Jewish Upper West Side. Prime KO’s food solidifies its status as a destination for delightful fine dining.

Prime KO is located at 217 West 85^th Street

Supervision – OU, Glatt

$$$

Monday - Thursday 5:30 - 11:00
Saturday 1 1/2 hours after Sundown - 11:30
Bar Open Daily till 2:00 am

Friday Nights - Open for pre paid Shabbat meals
please email shabbatclub@primekony.com
for more information.