Prime KO - A lesson in Asian Fusion

Prime KO – A Lesson in Asian Fusion

By Yael Hanover

Prime Hospitality’s latest venture – an upscale Asian Fusion restaurant on the Upper West Side delights the palate and introduces diners to new adventures in gastronomy.

Blizzard conditions made New York City nearly impassable last Sunday night. Heavy snow and gusting winds kept all but the most determined travelers at home.   Through swirling gusts of vicious chill, my husband and I made our way to 85^th Street.  Boy, was it worth it.

Prime KO is just east of Broadway on 85^th Street. The latest addition to the West Side’s array of kosher restaurants is in a class of its own. Prime KO presents a selection of Asian Fusion and traditional Japanese dishes in a setting that is at the same time chic and comfortable with impeccable service. Architect Warren Ashworth’s design combines sleek lines and angles with rich, warm colors and organic elements. Orchids in angular vases and vivid monotone artwork adorn the walls. Round lighting fixtures designed by Steven Katz evoke paper lanterns, but are in fact, finely threaded. As with its food, Prime KO’s aesthetics strike the perfect balance.

Like its “Prime,” relatives, Prime Grill and Solo, Prime KO is a great restaurant that happens to be kosher. 10 years ago, Joey Allaham revolutionized kosher dining by opening Prime Grill.  The part owner of the Plaza Hotel’s Oak Room felt luxury and dietary observance were not exclusive.  He introduced midtown to his passion; fine kosher food. In mid 2011, Allaham hopes to bring such indulgence to the dining room tables of New York City. His plan is to open a butcher shop to sell all the high quality meats that make his restaurants remarkable. Allaham knows that New York supports a unique climate for kosher diners and continues to expand the horizons of the market. With the opening of Solo, Allaham presented the kosher market with Asian Fusion, a concept he carries through to his newest venture. Prime KO is the hip kid of the Prime family, incorporating innovative cuisine, chic design and a cocktail lounge, all in an atmosphere friendly to families. Located in a “hub,” of the New York Jewish community, the West Side location has drawn a steady crowd of youthful clientele.

Coming in from the blizzard, my first priority was to warm up. The perfect remedy for the frigid weather was a warm cup of flavored Sake.  First I had the lychee, and then the raspberry.  The lychee was sweet and adventurous while the raspberry had a more familiar flavor and a tart finish. The food also carried pleasant warmth to it.  The fusion appetizers were spicy without being hot and employed a number of different ingredients to give them each a unique zing. The spicy tuna with crispy rice was such a creative amalgamation of flavors, my husband declared as soon as he tasted it, “There’s so much going on right now!” The tuna was combined with traditional spicy mayo, but not so much that the fresh tuna flavor was overwhelmed, and then topped with jalapeño aioli. The tuna rested atop a cake of sushi rice that was crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside and sweet throughout.  The combination of flavors and textures was symphonic. It was the ideal introduction to the fusion concept. The Katzu salmon roll seamlessly blended sushi with haute European elements like truffle oil and sundried tomatoes while the tuna pizza and sashimi tacos took on simple classics and made them extraordinary.

The hot appetizer menu also features dressed up common American dishes. The Buffalo wings are marinated in the same spicy mayonnaise that accents the tuna.  The sliders are made from Kobe beef and dressed in teriyaki sauce. The Gyu Kakuni, however is a more traditional offering which strikes an elegant balance of sweet and savory.  This slow cooked short rib dish is braised for 12 hours in a sake, miso and teriyaki sauce. The result is meat so tender, a knife was needed only to push it back onto the fork. The long, slow cooking process also infuses the beef with the delicately poised flavors of the sauce.

Where Gyu Kakuni gains in patience, Shabu Shabu triumphs in haste. Literally translated as “Swish, swish,” Shabu Shabu was served as a kettle of hot broth set over flame with thinly sliced beef on the side. We dipped the beef in the broth – called Dashi – and swished it back and forth as it cooked to our liking, acquiring hints of essence from the cabbage and mushrooms in the broth. It was light and refreshing and acquired exciting kicks of flavor from the dipping sauces with which it was served.  We also had the opportunity to try Sukiyaki.  Similar in concept to Shabu Shabu, Sukiyaki is a soup made with thinly sliced beef, Napa cabbage, scallions and shitake mushrooms, but in a more robust broth. Sukiyaki and Shabu Shabu show how Prime KO Chef Makoto Kameyama can create a wide variety of thrilling dishes all infused with the same common elements. Chef Kameyama was classically trained in Japan and handpicked by Prime KO owner Joey Allaham.  Chef Kameyama brings authenticity and creativity to Prime KO permeating every dish not only with tradition but inspiration.

The foundation of any dish, no matter how elaborate, is the ingredients.  The next offering was the expert presentation of premium fundamentals. Renowned for its flavor and marbled texture, Kobe beef speaks for itself and requires very little accoutrement to bring out its unique character. To best showcase this special beef, it was prepared in front of us on a heated Himalayan salt stone and lightly seasoned with Yuzu lemon. This produced a fully appreciated form of Kobe beef; bold flavor gracefully accented by Yuzu and Himalayan salt. As with all of Prime KO’s dishes, it is the ideal realization of the best ingredients.

Ending on a high note, we sampled Prime KO’s desserts.  Each had its own unique character to offer. The ubiquitous hot chocolate cake stood out among its counterparts at other restaurants. This one was made in house, as opposed to frozen and reheated and gave forth its sweet filling with little pressure from the spoon. Two types of parve ice cream – fig and ginger - topped almond cookies.  Both were so rich and creamy I’d have doubted they were parve if I didn’t know better. The roasted pear was subtly infused with spices without losing its own flavor or texture. It was just another of Prime KO’s stand out dishes that was more than the sum of its parts, much like the place itself.

Prime KO is a brilliant apex of design and gastronomic artistry. It cultivates a hip but comfortable ambience while serving innovative but approachable dishes. The space accommodates fine dining, casual cocktails (try the San Tropee!), and even music. During Chanukah, the Maccabeats performed for an intimate crowd in Prime KO’s downstairs dining room. The event solidified Prime KO’s status as a cultural hub of the Jewish Upper West Side. Prime KO’s food solidifies its status as a destination for delightful fine dining.

Prime KO is located at 217 West 85^th Street

Supervision – OU, Glatt

$$$

Monday - Thursday 5:30 - 11:00
Saturday 1 1/2 hours after Sundown - 11:30
Bar Open Daily till 2:00 am

Friday Nights - Open for pre paid Shabbat meals
please email shabbatclub@primekony.com
for more information.